COVID-19 Coronavirus Message Updated: 31th March
Mail Order Customers:
  *
Our carrier DHL is operating normally across the world (including in Italy), with the exception of Hubei province in China. Allow an extra day for delivery (4 days for Japan), just in case.
  * We will be working normally and have a large warehouse full of parts that will help keep your car on the road even if many of the parts manufacturers are now closing.
Workshop Customers:
  *
Following government guidance, we are open as usual. Taking your vehicle to a garage for repairs is a permitted activity (safety) as long as you observe the social distancing rules. We have no signs of illness in the company and are taking all precautions to minimise contact and disinfect daily (not least because we have staff in vulnerable groups). Our mechanics wear gloves at all times and we will disinfect your vehicle with our Zaflora sprays on handing back to you. We would respectfully ask you to show our staff the same courtesy.
  * To help those in self isolation, we are now offering a free Collect & Return Service of up to 30 miles, so if you have any servicing due in the next 3 months now might be good time to get it out of the way without even having to open your front door. We will disinfect your car on collection and return.
  * MOTs due for renewal from 30 March will be extended for half a year. However, you are still obliged to keep your vehicle in a safe and roadworthy condition, so if you need to use your car in this period, it is still recommended to get one done.







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A detailed and illustrated guide to changing the cam belt and water pump on a 156, 147 and GT JTDm

This is a guide to replacing a cam belt (or timing belt) and water pump on a 156, 147 and GT, this guide is to be used for the routine replacement of the belt. If your belt has broken please use the appropriate guide for that operation

Undo 10mm bolts circled in red and pull off engine cover, it has a puss fitting on the far right hand side.

Under the cover yoou fill find quite a complicated engine, dont let this daunt you.

Remove the engine ECU from the cam belt end of the engine, dont disconect it, and place it on the inner wing.

Undo the bolt that secures the coolant bleed pipe.

Remove the top engine mounting.

Remove engine mounting support bracket.

Remove upper cam belt cover and the lower cam belt cover fastners that you can reach from above.

Jack car up and make sure it is safe and secure, then remove road wheel.

Remove inner wheel arch liner and under tray.

Using a spanner on the bolt in the middle of the auxiliary belt tensioner move the tensioner anti clockwise then slip the belt of the pulley

Remove the crank shaft pulley, note that is only goes on in one position.

Remove the auxiliary belt idler.

Move the crank shaft round until the cam belt timing marks line up

This is the crankshaft timing mark.

and this is the camshaft timing mark.

Remove cam belt tensioner.

Remove cam belt idler.

Remove water pump and replace with a new one, the water pump siezing up is the most common cause of cam belt failures.

Line the marks on the cam belt (or timing belt)up with the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys. Please note there are two belts that fit this engine, 198 teeth on early cars and 199 on later vehicles.

Tension the belt correctly and reassemble using the reverse of the above procedure. When you have finnished reassembly, remember to top up the engine coolant and bleed the radiator using the bleed screw in the top left hand corner.

Related Links: For parts for this job or other service parts follow this link

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