COVID-19 Coronavirus Message Updated: 8th July
Mail Order Customers:
  *
Our carrier DHL is operating near normally across the world. Allow an extra day for delivery (2 days for Australia, 6 days for New Zealand), just in case. However, regular international postal services can have additional delays, and are not recommended for anything required within 6 weeks.
  * For the UK only, Royal Mail are delivering the vast majority of orders on time according to our data, but is experiencing higher levels of staff absences, so there may some local delays.
  * We will be working normally and have a large warehouse full of parts that will help keep your car on the road. However, we are beginning to see supply delays from factory lockdowns around the world.
Workshop Customers:
  *
Following government guidance, we are open as usual. Taking your vehicle to a garage for repairs is a permitted activity (safety) as long as you observe the social distancing rules. We have strict social distancing processes internally and disinfect daily (not least because we have staff in vulnerable groups). In the circumstances, we have had to close our waiting room. Our mechanics wear gloves at all times and we will disinfect your vehicle with our Zaflora sprays on handing back to you. We would respectfully ask you to show our staff the same courtesy. We also have full amount contactless payment systems.
  * MOTs due for renewal from 30th March to 31st July will be extended for six months. However, you are still legally obliged to keep your vehicle in a safe and roadworthy condition, so if you need to use your car in this period, it is still strongly recommended to get one done.







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Removing the rigid coolant pipe on a 2.0 JTS

You're going to need to remove the air con compressor and bracket for this one. Parts needed are the rigid coolant pipe 60676070, anti freeze & jubilee clips.

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Unscrew the four 5mm Allen key bolts on the engine cover.

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Undo the oil filler cap and remove the engine cover. You can replace the filler cap at this point to prevent anything being dropped down there.

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Undo the top of the flexi hose at the inlet manifold,

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and the bottom to the air flow meter.

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Detach the top breather hose.

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Cut/remove the clip connecting the radiators top inlet hose to the thermostat.

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Place a drain pan underneath the engine to catch the coolant when you pull this hose off.

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Undo the 10mm bolt for the wiring bracket,

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and the dipstick support bracket.

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Disconnect the inlet hose to the rigid coolant rail,

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and then the outlet hose.

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Take out the two bolts to the air flow meter to make access easier to the rigid pipe bottom hose later.

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Undo the rigid rail middle 15mm bolt.

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Unscrew the two 5mm Allen head bolts to the top side cover of the auxiliary belt,

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and the front 10mm bolt.

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Remove the right hand wheel.

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Unscrew the side cover in the wheel arch liner.

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Using a 15mm spanner on the bolt of the auxiliary tensioner pulley, pull/push the spanner in an anti clockwise direction (towards the front of the car) to release the tension on the belt, then carefully slip the belt off of the tensioner.

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Remove the undertray.

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Undo the two bottom 13mm bolts on the air con compressor.

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Take off the 10mm nut and bracket on the top stud of the compressor,

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then remove both studs.

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Undo the 15mm bolt in the middle of the compressor bracket,

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then the one under the exhaust manifold.

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Undo the three bottom bracket bolts in a row to release the part.

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Undo the upper and lower 10mm bolts on the rigid coolant pipe,

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then the last lower one at the other end.

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Now you can release the last two hose clamps and the pipe is FREE!

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