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Removing The Intake Manifold On An Alfa 159 1.9 JTDM



In order to remove the intake manifold the engine will need supporting and the cam belt replacing.
The model involved is a later 150hp version with the PLASTIC manifold.

WORKSHOP TIME 8hrs 20mins

Cam belt kit 71754559 and water pump 55269148
Intake manifold 55202680 and EGR gaskets 46773082/55225287



If you would like to BOOK yourself in the price of this repair (including cam belt kit and water pump) on a late 159 1.9 JTDM is £1,219.10

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Pull off the plastic engine cover, release the x2 crimp clips to the resonator box and remove the box.

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Undo the x6 T40 (Torx) bolts to the cam belt cover and remove.

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The undertray has x2 6mm Allen bolts, x10 T30 and x7 Phillips screws.

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To make things easier you can remove the FRONT RIGHT wheel otherwise turn the steering wheel to full right lock.

Undo the x2 T30 screws to the wheel arch side cover and remove.

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The vertical brace bar has an 18mm and E18 bolt.

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To remove the auxiliary belt place a 15mm spanner on the idler bolt to the auxiliary tensioner and rotate clockwise to release tension.

Undo the x4 T45 bolts to remove the bottom pulley.

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Undo the x2 lower 13mm bolts to the right hand engine mount support bracket.

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Support the engine under the sump and raise the engine slightly to take the weight off of the engine mounts.

Undo the x3 E18 bolts from the right side engine mount to support bracket, the x3 18mm and x1 E14 to the body shell.

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There's x4 13mm bolts left to undo holding the support bracket.

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The cam belt needs taking off so rule of thumb, to align all the pulleys use a 19mm spanner to rotate the bottom pulley clockwise until the raised circular indicator coincides with the notch on the engine casting....

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...and the white indicator on the camshaft pulley is about 2.15pm on a clock face.

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The two holes on the 'high pressure' fuel pump pulley should line up with two holes on the side of the engine.

Lock the pulley in position by screwing in x2 M6 bolts.

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Remove the 12mm tensioner, 22mm idler and the cam belt.

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You can now undo the 22mm nut holding the fuel pump pulley.

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Disconnect the fuel return pipe to the bias valve, free the pipe of any clips then tuck it away by the bulk head.

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Undo the 10mm bolts to the bracket for the breather pipe.

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Unclip the breather pipe from the segregator.

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Unclip the fuel overflow rail from all x4 of the injectors, pop it out and remove the whole line.

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Disconnect the hose at the fuel pressure pump that leads to the bias valve, undo the x2 10mm bolts to the bias valve and remove.

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At the fuel pressure pump unclip the pressure sensor and the fuel feed hose.

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Undo the 14mm fuel pipe union to the pressure pump and the 17mm union at the other end to the injector fuel rail.

You can now undo the x3 12mm nuts to the pressure pump and remove the pump.

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Unclip the segregator top hose near the oil filler cap.

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Undo the x2 10mm nuts on the EGR valve that holds the engine cover mounting bracket then the x2 10mm studs and x2 10mm bolts.

Unplug the connector then undo the top x2 13mm bolts.

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Unplug the glow plug caps, the MAP sensor and boost pressure sensor (end of fuel rail) then undo the x3 10mm bolts to the wiring loom harness.

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At the segregator unclip the top hose then remove the segregator by undoing the x3 13mm bracket bolts to the intake manifold.

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The induction pipe is held by x2 5mm Allen bolts.

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Remove the x2 T30 screws to the brace bar.

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There's x9 12mm nuts holding the intake manifold.

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The stud (for the fuel pressure pump) nearest the intake manifold needs removing so tighten x2 M8x1,25 nuts together to make a 'lock nut' to undo the stud.

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Separate the throttle body by undoing the x3 5mm Allen bolts.

You should be able to work the intake manifold free of the studs.

Related Links: Turbo removal | Cambelt replacement | Alternator replacement

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